The struggle for healthy food is deeply intertwined with the legacy of colonization, according to a recent study led by Dr. Madeline Shelling, a postdoctoral health researcher from the University of Auckland's Faculty of Medical and Health Sciences. The study, grounded in in-depth interviews with Māori food experts, reveals how generations of land loss, environmental degradation, restrictive laws, and the marginalization of Māori knowledge have dismantled Māori food systems.
Dr. Shelling's research began with a personal visit to her whānau in Te Araroa, where, despite their pride in the food sourced from their land, they were still classified as food insecure. This experience highlighted a critical issue: the assessment of food security in Aotearoa, a wealthy settler colonial nation, fails to reflect Māori values, traditions, and knowledge. The current system, based on a questionnaire with eight questions focusing on monetary access to food, does not account for the diverse ways Māori and other indigenous cultures access food.
The consequences of food insecurity in Aotearoa are stark, manifesting as obesity, diabetes, and non-communicable and diet-related diseases, which carry a stigma. Dr. Shelling emphasizes that this issue is not unique to Māori; it is a pattern observed in indigenous populations across settler-colonized countries worldwide. However, the blame is often placed on individual choice, which Dr. Shelling argues is a misconception.
She poses thought-provoking questions: "What if fish and chips are the only accessible option in your area? What if you work two jobs and lack transportation, making McDonald's your only walkable choice?" Dr. Shelling asserts that those with the privilege of choice cannot fathom the limitations faced by others. Reducing food insecurity to individual choice ignores systemic issues in lower socio-economic areas and the impact of colonization.
The study identifies four key impacts of colonization: land loss, erosion of rangatiratanga (Māori authority), marginalization of Māori knowledge, and health consequences. Dr. Shelling states, "It's hard to get healthy kai when you don't have healthy whenua that you can access."
Addressing food insecurity requires a multi-faceted approach. Dr. Shelling emphasizes the responsibility from both the top-down and bottom-up perspectives. While policy implementation is crucial, the daily actions and capabilities of whānau are equally vital, as many lack the choice of where to purchase food. Dr. Shelling concludes by emphasizing Māori efforts to address food insecurity and their desire to avoid reliance on fast food and takeaways. She calls for a deeper understanding of colonization's impact on food systems, urging a shift from victimhood to a comprehensive understanding of colonization's effects on all aspects of life.
